Satin Database: Types, Fibres, Weights, Weaves and Standards at a Glance
What is the Satin Database?
The Satin Database is a set of reference tables for the numbers and facts people look up most: satin types, fibres, weights, weave structures, care rules, test standards and which satin suits which garment. Every table is short, sourced where a source exists, and linked to the full guide behind it. Use it when you want a fast answer, and follow the links when you want the reasoning.
One rule holds across every table: satin is a weave, not a fibre. The weave sets the shine and the snag risk. The fibre sets feel, breathability and care. The weight sets drape and opacity. Keep those three apart and the data below is easy to read. For definitions of any term used here, see the Satin Glossary.
How do the satin types compare?
This table summarises the common satin types by fibre, weight, finish and best use. Weights are indicative ranges, because mills vary. Check the listing for the exact figure.
| Type | Usual fibre | Body | Finish | Best for | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Charmeuse | Silk or polyester | Light, fluid | Glossy face, dull back | Slips, blouses, linings, lingerie | Charmeuse |
| Crepe-back satin | Silk or polyester | Light to medium | Glossy face, matte crepe back | Dresses, blouses, tailoring | Crepe-back |
| Duchess satin | Silk or polyester | Heavy, stiff | High lustre | Ball gowns, bridal wear | Duchess |
| Bridal satin | Polyester or silk | Medium to heavy | Rich lustre | Wedding gowns | Bridal |
| Slipper satin | Acetate, polyester or silk | Firm | Smooth, moderate gloss | Shoes, linings, dance wear | Slipper |
| Antique satin | Silk or polyester | Medium to heavy | Slubbed, subdued shine | Drapes, evening wear | Antique |
| Stretch satin | Polyester with elastane | Light to medium | Glossy, with give | Fitted dresses, bralettes | Stretch |
| Peau de soie | Silk or polyester | Medium to heavy | Soft lustre, fine rib | Wedding and evening wear | Peau de soie |
The full reasoning behind each pairing is in our guide to fashion by satin type, and the overview is in types of satin.
How do the fibres used for satin compare?
Satin can be woven from any smooth filament. These are the six you will meet. The care column shows the usual starting point only, and the garment label always wins. In the United States, the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act requires fibre content on labels, and the Care Labeling Rule requires care instructions on clothing. See the FTC page on the Textile Act and the Care Labeling Rule.
| Fibre | Origin | Strengths | Watch out for | Usual care |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Silk | Natural protein filament | Soft, breathable, lustrous | Water spots, sun damage, price | Gentle hand wash or dry clean |
| Polyester | Synthetic | Cheap, strong, resists wrinkles | Less breathable, melts under heat | Machine wash gentle, cool iron |
| Nylon | Synthetic | Strong, takes acid dye | Can cling and hold static | Gentle wash, low heat |
| Acetate | Cellulose derivative | Fluid, glossy, affordable | Heat sensitive, weaker when wet | Often dry clean, low iron |
| Rayon or viscose | Regenerated cellulose | Drapes well, absorbent | Weak when wet, shrinks | Gentle wash or dry clean |
| Cupro | Regenerated from cotton linter | Silky, breathes better than polyester | Needs gentle handling | Gentle wash or dry clean |
For washing each fibre step by step, use how to wash satin. For the silk versus polyester choice, see silk satin versus polyester satin and satin vs silk.
What do momme, GSM and ounces equal?
One momme equals about 4.34 grams per square metre, according to Store norske leksikon. One ounce per square yard is about 33.9 grams per square metre. The table converts common silk weights. Multiply momme by 4.34 for GSM, and divide GSM by 33.9 for ounces per square yard.
| Momme | GSM | Ounces per square yard | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 34.7 | 1.0 | Very light scarves and linings |
| 12 | 52.1 | 1.5 | Light scarves and liners |
| 16 | 69.4 | 2.0 | Light blouses and sleepwear |
| 19 | 82.5 | 2.4 | Pajamas, blouses and pillowcases |
| 22 | 95.5 | 2.8 | Heavier pillowcases and shirts |
| 25 | 108.5 | 3.2 | Heavy pillowcases and robes |
| 30 | 130.2 | 3.8 | Heavy, durable pieces |
The momme scale was built for silk, so a polyester satin has no momme figure and is sold in GSM. Our guides to momme and GSM show how to measure weight yourself and how to read a listing. To compare weights fairly, convert everything to GSM first.
How do plain, twill, satin and sateen weaves differ?
A weave is a pattern of crossings between warp and weft threads. Satin has the longest floats and the fewest crossings, which gives it shine and lowers its abrasion resistance. A five-end satin repeats every five threads, and a counter of 2 or 3 spreads the crossings so no diagonal appears, as the EXARC Journal explains in a 2024 paper by Olsen.
| Weave | Float length | Surface | Strength | Shine | Example |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plain | 1 thread | Flat, matte | Very high | Low | Taffeta, poplin |
| Twill | 2 to 3 threads | Diagonal rib | High | Medium | Denim, gabardine |
| Satin (warp-faced) | 4 or more threads | Smooth, glossy | Lower, snags | High | Charmeuse, duchess |
| Sateen (weft-faced) | 4 or more threads | Smooth, soft | Lower | Medium | Cotton sateen sheets |
Read more in what is satin weave, satin floats and satin vs sateen.
Which standards and tests apply to satin?
Fabric claims such as weight and colourfastness are only reliable when a standard method supports them. These are the ones that matter for satin.
| Standard | What it covers | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| ASTM D3776 | Mass per unit area (weight) of fabric | Gives the GSM figure behind a weight claim |
| ASTM D1909 | Commercial moisture regain of fibres | Explains why fibre weight and dry weight differ |
| ISO 105 series | Colourfastness to washing, rubbing, light and perspiration | Predicts fading and crocking |
| Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (US) | Fibre content labels | Lets you tell silk from polyester |
| Care Labeling Rule (US) | Care instructions on clothing | Tells you how to wash a garment safely |
The weight standard ASTM D3776 defines several test options, so ask which one a seller used when a weight claim matters.
How should each satin type be cared for?
Care depends on fibre first and weave second. Silk satin is washed gently and never wrung, and polyester satin is more tolerant but melts under a hot iron. Always test a hidden area for colour before using any new product. This table gives a quick start, and the full steps are in our guides to washing satin, ironing satin and whether satin shrinks.
| Task | Silk satin | Polyester satin | Acetate or rayon satin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washing | Cool water, mild detergent, by hand | Machine wash gentle, cool | Often dry clean only |
| Drying | Air dry flat or hung in shade | Air dry or tumble on low | Air dry, support the weight |
| Ironing | Low heat, inside out, press cloth | Low heat only, inside out | Low heat, press cloth |
| Stain removal | Dab quickly, avoid rubbing | Dab with mild soap | Dab, test first |
How is satin dyed and finished?
Dye class follows fibre. Silk and nylon take acid dyes, and polyester takes disperse dyes at about 130 degrees Celsius for roughly an hour, followed by reduction clearing, according to a 2022 paper by Jozi and Izadan. Raw silk loses roughly 15 to 25 percent of its mass when it is degummed. Calendering then smooths the cloth and brings up the sheen.
See satin dyeing and finishing and can you dye satin for the full process.
Where does satin appear in formal menswear?
Satin is used as a facing on tuxedo lapels, as covered buttons, and as the stripe on trousers. Grosgrain is the alternative, and the choice is a matter of formality and taste. Our guide to satin suits and tuxedos has the details, and men’s satin fashion covers shirts, jackets and ties.
How do you read a satin product listing?
Most satin listings use the same handful of words in different orders. Work through the checks below in order, and you will catch nearly every misleading description. Each check ties to a table above.
- Find the fibre. Look for a percentage, such as 100 percent polyester or 100 percent silk. A listing that says only “satin” has told you the weave and nothing else.
- Find the weight. Silk should list momme, and everything else should list GSM. Convert to GSM with the weight table to compare.
- Check the type. Charmeuse, duchess, crepe-back and slipper are different fabrics with different jobs. Match the type to the garment using the type table.
- Look for stretch. Any elastane or spandex content changes how the fabric sews and fits.
- Read the care line. If it says dry clean only, plan for that cost before you buy.
- Ask about the dye lot. When you need several yards, confirm they come from one lot.
- Check the width. Fabric width changes how much you must buy. See satin fabric by the yard.
- Order a swatch. Photos misrepresent sheen and colour, and a swatch settles it in a day.
Which quick tests can you do at home?
You do not need a lab to learn a lot about a satin. These simple tests tell you about fibre, weight and quality. None of them replaces the label, and none should be done on a garment you cannot afford to mark, so use an offcut or a hidden seam allowance.
| Test | How to do it | What it shows |
|---|---|---|
| Light test | Hold the fabric against a window | How sheer it is, and whether the weave is even |
| Drape test | Hang a corner over your hand and let it fall | Fluid or stiff, and a rough sense of weight |
| Hand test | Rub a patch between finger and thumb | Warm and soft suggests silk or rayon, and slippery and cool suggests polyester |
| Float test | Look at the surface under a bright lamp | Even, unbroken floats mean good weaving, and broken floats mean fuzz and snags |
| Colour test | Rub a damp white cloth on the fabric | Whether the dye crocks off |
| Burn test | Burn a few threads from a hidden edge over a sink | Silk and polyester burn differently, see our guide |
The burn test has its own guide with safety steps. Please read it before trying anything: silk satin versus polyester satin.
Which satin names are often confused?
Fabric names overlap, and sellers use them loosely. This table separates the pairs that cause most mix-ups.
| Pair | The difference | Where to read more |
|---|---|---|
| Satin and sateen | Satin is warp-faced and usually filament. Sateen is weft-faced and usually cotton. | Satin vs sateen |
| Satin and silk | Satin is a weave. Silk is a fibre. Silk can be woven as satin, but satin is not always silk. | Satin vs silk |
| Satin and charmeuse | Charmeuse is one type of satin, the light and fluid kind. | Charmeuse |
| Duchess satin and peau de soie | Duchess is glossy and stiff. Peau de soie is duller with a fine rib. | Peau de soie |
| Satin and chiffon | Satin is smooth and opaque. Chiffon is sheer and light. | Satin vs chiffon |
| Satin and velvet | Satin has a flat glossy surface. Velvet has a cut pile with a nap. | Satin vs velvet |
| Satin and microfibre | Satin is defined by its weave. Microfibre is defined by its very fine fibre. | Satin vs microfibre |
What do the weave counts mean?
Fabric density is quoted as ends per inch (EPI) and picks per inch (PPI). An end is a warp thread and a pick is a weft thread. Thread count adds the two together. A satin with more ends per inch is generally denser, smoother and more opaque, but the number alone does not prove quality, because yarn fineness, weave and fibre also count. Treat thread count as one clue among several, and for bedding see our satin bedding guide.
| Measure | Short for | What it counts |
|---|---|---|
| EPI | Ends per inch | Warp threads in one inch of width |
| PPI | Picks per inch | Weft threads in one inch of length |
| Thread count | EPI plus PPI | Total threads in one square inch |
| Denier | Grams per 9,000 metres | Fineness of a single yarn |
| Tex | Grams per 1,000 metres | Fineness, in the metric system |
| GSM | Grams per square metre | Weight of finished fabric |
Frequently asked questions
What is the best satin for a wedding dress?
Bridal satin and duchess satin are the usual choices for structured gowns, and charmeuse suits a fluid, bias-cut dress. See the bridal satin guide for details.
What is the difference between silk satin and polyester satin?
Silk satin is a natural protein fibre in a satin weave, and polyester satin is a synthetic fibre in the same weave. Silk breathes better, and polyester is cheaper and easier to wash.
How many GSM is 19 momme?
About 82.5 GSM, because one momme is about 4.34 grams per square metre.
Which satin weave has the longest floats?
The satin weave, where each thread floats over four or more crossing threads.
Does polyester satin have a momme rating?
No. Momme is a silk unit. Polyester satin is sold by GSM.
Which dye is used on polyester satin?
Disperse dye, applied at about 130 degrees Celsius, followed by reduction clearing.
Which standard measures fabric weight?
ASTM D3776 is the standard test method for mass per unit area of fabric.
Can I wash all satin the same way?
No. Fibre decides the method, so check the label and use the care table above as a starting point only.
Where to go next
Keep this page open while you read the full guides. Start with what satin is, then look up any term or browse the Satin Visual Library to see the fabrics and diagrams behind the numbers.